Fremantle Alfresco: Drink, Dine, and Shop

The Port City is the perfect pit stop for those who like food, fun and sun. Susan Skelly had it on her radar when in WA recently. Here’s her hit list.

Would you like bread with that?

Where to eat & drink in Fremantle

Bread in Common
43 Pakenham Street

This bakery, cafe and wine bar epitomises the West’s new food culture. In a ritzy, rustic made-over boat repair shed, its share plates nod to Ottolenghi – think zucchini ribbons, capsicum puree, walnuts and dates; cuttlefish with black beans, cumin and peas; and smoked tomato butter with bread from the in-house bakery. When it comes to wine, beer, cider, and even cheese, the menu is comprehensive, rare and unusual.

The National Hotel has a habit of rising from the ashes. Now, in all its glory again.

The National Hotel
Corner of Market & High Streets

Started life as a bank in the late 1800s, the National is finally open again after a history of demolition, fires and brawls. Karl Bullers took the wheel over three years ago and has turned the “Federation freestyle” hotel, with its substantial frontage and cute turret, into a cool destination for food, beer, bands and people-watching. Curry and a pint come at a cool $15.

A hop, skip and a jump: beer heaven at Little Creatures.

Little Creatures
40-42 Mews Road

Craft brews: they’re everywhere. But stop by Little Creatures Brewery and experiment: from the hop monster that is Little Creatures Pale Ale, to the malty Rogers Amber Ale or the more Belgian-style cloudy wheat and orange peel notes of White Rabbit White Ale. A chaser of Pipsqueak cider made from granny smith and pink lady apples, perhaps?

Sunsets and shellfish at Bathers Beach House.

Bathers Beach House
47 Mews Road

For big skies, beach action, big food and people-watching, book at this beach-front restaurant inhabiting the historic Fisherman’s Co-op building. Fresh mussels are a must.

Puppy love at one of Fremantle’s oldest establishments, The Ball and Chain.

The Ball and Chain
Esplanade Hotel, corner of Marine Terrace & Collie Street

This friendly bar and pub comes with a rich history – it occupies the site that housed the state’s first convicts, and has incorporated parts of the original ceiling, pulleys and beams from the Matilda Bay Brewery into its redesign. Stake out a spot in the clubby-cool lounge next to the bar, and sample something from the extensive range of Matilda Bay craft beer and cider. As well as the brews, there’s a compelling selection of bourbon, scotch and rum.

The latest in guilloché embellishment from Kailis, a pearl neckpiece from the Enlightenment Collection

Where to shop in Fremantle

Kailis
Corner of Marine Terrace & Collie Street

Pop across the road from The Ball and Chain to Kailis HQ to be seduced by the Australian jeweller’s latest pearl perfection. Take particular note of the stunning aurora green guilloché pieces from the Enlightenment Collection.

The Many complex, a hub of cool retail start-ups in Fremantle’s CBD.

Many 6160
Kings Square, 2 Newman Court

While the former Myer department store awaits its prince (with $1 billion in development on the cards for Fremantle), enterprising locals have inhabited and transformed the multi-level space. The ground floor is now a hub of retail start-ups, with the upper floors housing workshops for furniture makers, surfboard shapers, sculptors, artists, rehearsing bands, and, handily, someone who makes pedal boards for guitarists. So far, there are 70 tenants.

Nic Brunsdon and Beth George started the not-for-profit Spacemarket initiative (“pairing disused spaces with useful people”), which gives innovative locals a chance to test their creative muscle before committing to formal leases. Kate and Matt Bale, who operate a cafe and hat stall (Kate & Abel), are natural ambassadors.

“We felt there were no real hangout spaces in Freo,” Kate said. “We’d like to think if you’ve got an idea you can make it happen.”

They see it as a template for an idea that could be adapted in any town or city. On the drawing board: a motorbike show, a market garden, a vintage market festival, and more.

Fremantle Markets are one of the region’s biggest drawcards.

The Fremantle Markets
Corner of South Terrace & Henderson Street

The markets attract up to 50,000 browsers each weekend, who come for the fresh local produce, artisanal goods, and community atmosphere. Expect musicians, a crush, charisma – and certain retail indecision.

Retail indecision, a souvenir option, at Fremantle Markets.

Drawing on naval heritage, the shipshape Hougoumont hotel.

Where to stay in Fremantle

The Hougoumont
15 Bannister Street

This new minimalist hotel is named after a convict ship (named after a battle), that arrived in Fremantle in 1868. Running with this theme, the hotel features boat-like passageways, and the boat’s register of its convict passengers displayed in the lobby, alongside their crime (from pick-pocketing and forgery to treason and murder) and sentence. Well-executed breakfasts and cakes at The Attic Café, opposite.

Renaissance man: Greg James’ Coast Guard own-rescue

Where to grab a selfie

Fremantle sculptor Greg James is probably best known for his Bon Scott statue but this summer all eyes will be on Coast Guard, which has re-emerged with a new coat of paint and new concrete footings. Originally made for Sculpture By The Sea at Bondi Beach in 2010 and Cottesloe in 2011, Coast Guard is the signature piece of the Pawn Project which explores how people perceive the utility chess pawn.

“The pawn’s activities are primarily for the benefit of another person or entity and ­Coast Guard is a nod to those who do jobs that benefit us all,” says James.

Wear and tear necessitated the restoration of Coast Guard, which has been funded by Cicerello’s restaurant by Fishing Boat Harbour, and which has claimed location rights. No doubt set to star in many a selfie.

For more…

FremantleStory.com.au is the go-to place for secrets of the city: passwords, pop-ups, insider nightclubs, comedy, photography, launch parties, and special offers.

Source: Qantas Travel Insider, February, 2015